MACRO PHOTO: The classical definition is that the subject projected on the “film plane” or digital sensor is approximately the same size as the subject. Recently, it has been used in advertising as a camera that is able to focus on a subject so that when a 4×6″ print is made, the subject fills the print (or larger).  I have decided that using the term “close-up” doesn’t have to explain itself like the term “macro” does. In either case, it is photography that captures more detail than we are normally used to seeing with our eyes without the aid of an optical device. Generally, the two terms are somewhat interchangeable; however, purists will go on and on about the differences between them.  Semantics have always been a moot point.

Someone recently asked about extension tubes and I created a brief entry on the subject. I also wrote an article relating to DSLR exposure modes.  Displayed below are image comparisons of shots made with macro lenses and extension tubes.  I used a Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens with the extension tubes  for simplicity’s sake.  I also took several shots using Nikon 105mm and 60mm prime lenses. The idea is to give an idea of the differences by using visual comparisons.  Although this project was not an extremely controlled setup, the criteria was to get as close as I could to the subject, in this case, playing cards, and focus on them. I used several different f-stops and their related shutter speeds.  The extension tubes render the aperture adjustment useless. So when taking closeup shots using the extension tubes, the only critical factors are shutter speed and focus.  The shots will be explained as you scroll down the screen; however, I started with the 105mm micro lens, attached all of the extension tubes with the 50mm lens, and finally, several shots using the 60mm macro lens with various aperture openings.

This shot above shows that at an aperture opening of F/9, the top half of the image is out of focus. Using a smaller aperture like f/22 would make more of the image in focus.

As you can see in this image, stacking all of the extension tubes really gets you close to your subject. Even with good lighting (daylight corrected fluorescent), the exposure time is rather long at 1/4 of a second. A tripod and remote shutter release is necessary to remove as much movement as possible.  In addition, you have to be careful to not move the camera/tripod as the focus point can be lost with only a fraction of inch of movement.

In this project, I connected a laptop to the D70 via USB and was running Nikon Camera Control software. This allows changing settings without touching the camera.  In addition, I have the camera powered with an AC/Adapter charger (EH-5) which allows me to forget about battery charge life during the session.

Extension tubes have no optics. They merely create distance between the camera’s sensor and the lens. The further the lens is from the camera’s sensor, the more the lens is forced to focus much closer to the subject. Since the distance is increased as more of the tubes are added, the exposure time has to be increased to compensate for this added length.

The next image is a crop of the full sized image with no reduction.  Obviously, all the other images have been reduced for browser display.

The image above was made the same as the last; however, the 36m extension tube was taken off the stack and the shutter speed was increased to 1/5 of a second.

The above image was taken with the 12mm extension tube coupled with the 50mm lens. This is the last shot using the extension tubes. Note that the depth of field is not as critical when the subject is shot head-on. This changes when shooting at an angle and across the plane.

The photo above compared to the one below show the effects of aperture size variations. The image point of focus was at the top of the card. In the photo above the aperture is set to f/9 and the foreground is out-of-focus. The 50mm lens is consider the lens that is closest to what the human eye sees.

The image above has the same setup as the previous image, but the aperture size was set to f/22 giving a greater depth of field. Noticed that the foreground is now in focus as well as the top portion of the photo.

The Nikon 60mm  macro (Nikon calls it Micro) lens creates tack sharp images. This image was taken at the closest focus point that I could manage to give an idea of what a photo looks like when you move the camera and lens in as close to the subject as possible. The following images were taken at an angle to emphasize the effects of varying the aperture size - f-stop.

This photo is relatively sharp across the plane. You can see a blurring effect moving up toward the top of the image. The following images will show how the depth of field decreases as the aperture opening increases.

Notice in this final image that the depth of field is so narrow at f/8 that the queen’s nose and mouth are all that are in focus.

Depth of field will allow you to emphasize specific areas in your photograph while making others nearly indistinguishable.

As you can tell from the images, it takes a lot of setup time as well as trial and error to get good images using extension tubes.  Good macro lenses are much easier to use when making close-ups.  However, they are much more expensive.

The 105mm macro lens is very useful for taking photos of skittish things like insects. It also works will as a portrait lens. The 105mm macro lens can focus as close as 1 foot from the subject.  The 60mm focuses as close as 1 7/8″ from the subject for 1:1 (meaning the subject is the same size on the photo sensor as it is in real life. Generally speaking, the shorter the focal length, the less expensive the lens.

The Nikon 60mm and the 105mm lenses are prime lenses. This means that they are a fixed focal length and will not “zoom”.  They are also “fast lenses“.  The speed of a lens is in reference to the maximum size of the opening of the iris in a lens or the minimum “f” number.   Both the 60mm and the 105mm Nikon micro lenses are considered fast lenses as they can open up to f/2.8.  The Nikon 50mm f/1.8 is an even faster lens.

Technorati Tags: macro, micro, closeup, close-up, nikon, lenses, extension tubes, aperture, shutter speed, exposure

Someone recently asked whether extension tubes are worth the expense. My short answer is YES.

For around $100, you can get “several’ lenses in one set. The Kenko extension tube set comes in 12, 20, and 36mm tubes. All of which can be interlocked and create a full 70mm. You can put any two, all three, or each one between your camera and the lens that you choose.  Although these are sold as autofocus, it is near useless as your camera will probably “hunt” when trying to gain focus.  It has been my experience that using manual focus is the only reliable way to achieve satisfactory results.

Macro photography inherently has a very narrow depth of field.  Extension tubes add to the light “fall off” as well and unless you are using additional lighting, such as a macro flash ring, or other lighting device, the exposures will be rather long.

The photo above illustrates how narrow the depth of field can be.  On the other hand, the photo above almost has that “Lensbaby” look to it.

The fun part, in my opinion, it that you can use it with any lens in your toolkit.  There are Kenko extension tubes for Nikon and Canon mounts.  This is a great way to get into macro (or actually close up) photography for much less than the cost of a true macro lens.   Along with the extension tubes, you’ll need a tripod and a remote shutter release mechanism (or the internal time) because the exposures can be quite long. With the extreme narrow depth of field, even the slightest movement can render an image highly blurred.  On top of that, you will have to be very patient as it takes a lot of setup to get good images.

Technorati Tags: macro, micro, closeup, lens, extension tubes, photos, photography

Analog Cameras are not dead…
…they’ve just been put on some dusty shelf…
Cat and I were out driving on a Saturday afternoon and passed an auction taking place in front of an old odds-and-ends store.  We decided to stop off, get a bidder’s number and follow the auctioneer around along with the group of potential buyers just in case something amid the “goods” was interesting.  The goods were varied and some of it was junk, some not.  As the saying goes, “one man’s junk is another man’s treasure.  A lot of things were going for ridiculously low prices.  As the auction went on, we arrived to an area that contained 4 Minolta camera bodies with 50mm lenses. The models were in the 200 series with one being a Minolta 101.  There were also a couple of Vivitar 85-205mm zoom lenses (they often sell for less than $10 a piece on eBay),  a decrepit naugahyde camera bag (headed for the landfill, unfortunately), and a dead Minolta flash unit.  The bidding started at $2 and I got caught up in the upward spiral and finally purchased the lot for $17.50.  I  was both tickled and shocked because I had no real need for the cameras. I have been shooting digital since the late 90s. Why did I feel the need for these relics?

Minolta SRT 101

My first serious camera back in the early 80s was a Pentax K1000.  I purchased it because it was a good camera at the time for a good price.  I just had it re-built several years ago. A very good manual camera for a student like myself at the time.  I learned a great deal about photography using that camera. Back then, I even learned how to develop black and white film, use the enlarger to expose print paper and develop the prints.  My K100 is still in mint condition and works like it did almost 30 years ago.  Do I have an affinity for the old gear?

It is still VERY COOL!

Minolta SRT201

These cameras are no different. They are great cameras even if they are about 30 some odd years old.  So, I cleaned them up with alcohol, Q-tips and lots of elbow grease.  One of the 4 camera bodies was shot. The other 3 were in good working condition. These are not made of plastic. These are solid metal and well made. You know, “they don’t make things like they used to…”.  The button batteries (for the light meter mechanism) were long dead. One was actually starting to leak, but no damage done.  So, I headed out for replacement batteries and, of course, film after work one day.  The batteries are around $3.50 a piece (I bought 2) and the film I picked up at Target (convenience in this case) 3 rolls of ASA400 Kodak UltraMax 24 exposures per roll at $7.98 for a grand total of around $15.

 
Minolta SRT 200

Now, it doesn’t take a math professor to figure out that I was only $2.50 shy of the cost of all the equipment that I had purchased.  However, what fun I have had so far for less than a nice dinner out.   These are neat cameras in their simplicity of design, ease of use,  and long life.  This gear when purchased new would have cost hundreds of dollars and now, they are selling for ridiculously low prices.

More as it DEVELOPS…

Technorati Tags: camera, 35mm, conventional, minolta, srt200, srt201, srt101, film, analog, manual, lens, lenses, slr

Taken with a $129 Canon PowerShot SD1100 IS camera in macro mode w/flash

I should say, the camera doesn’t matter as much as what (or who) is standing behind it.  People take photos, not cameras.  You can create a great image with a disposable camera and many people have.  Lighting, composition, and a creative eye are more important than megapixels. Most of the point and shoot cameras today will allow you to make great photos.  Chase Jarvis has taken some very compelling photos with his iPhone. Pinhole camera photography is probably one of the most fundamental means of taking pictures and there are some astounding examples of work done with them. Purchasing an expensive camera doesn’t mean you can create outstanding photographs. Good musicians can play on anything and a good photographer can make great images with a disposable camera.  There have been 60 years of improvements and advancements in photographic equipment; yet, the photographs that Ansel Adams took back in the 1940s are still thought to be some of the finest images ever captured. Why is that?

“Quick, grab the camera, there’s a frog on the window”

How do you get to Carnegie Hall?  Practice Man, Practice. 

Some people think that you can fix your camera settings, put it in multiple frame mode and press and hold the shutter down hoping to “accidentally” get that perfect shot.  You may actually luck out and get that one great shot; however, chances are you’ll do much better by using your eye to find a good shot and press once. Practice is very important. Some things work and other don’t and you’ll never know which one is which until you start practicing by taking lots of photographs. Learn your camera. Change the settings. Learn about white balance. Learn about exposure compensation. Since digital photography has come into its own, there has never been a better time to do just that. Once you have purchased your digital camera, the rest is cheap (besides your valuable time).  Keep your camera with you at all times and be ready to take a shot, or two, or three, or hundreds.     Look, that taxi is one fire…    *snap*

Technorati Tags: photography, photo, pictures, cameras, megapixels, learning, basics, composition, tutorial, tips

AF-S DX VR Zoom-NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED

When I first began purchasing lenses for my Nikon DSLR cameras, I wanted a lens that “did it all”.  Of course, there really is no such thing as you begin to learn about lens speeds and focal lengths.  However, for someone who is looking to purchase the one lens to start, I recommend this one over the others at this time. The price is not astronomical, the 18-200mm zoom is a wonderful range. The VR (vibration reduction) feature that is engineered into the lens offers the equivalent of using a shutter speed 4 stops faster. This allows you to get shots in lower light conditions. Ideally, this lens would be faster than the f/3.5-5.6 and it would be unbelievable. On the other hand, the lens would be priced so high it would be somewhat prohibitive. The cheaper 55-200mm lens does not have the wide angle that the 18-200mm does and that cripples its ability to cover such a wide (no pun intended) range of shots.  Obviously, this lens is slow as opposed to the f/2 collection that Nikon has to offer.  All in all, if you are looking for that one lens that will allow you to do it all and not break the bank, the Nikkor 18-200mm VR lens it the one to get.

Where to Buy?

I purchased mine through eBay. I lurked for weeks and watched how they sold. Once I found out what one in good condition was selling for, I began my bidding. I lost several bids until I finally found one that did not have someone yearning for it so badly. You can get one for about $100 less than a new one. Of course, you probably won’t get a warranty, but it is probably worth the gamble for the savings. Otherwise, I would suggest adorama.com or bhphotovideo.com which give decent prices and service.

Technorati Tags: nikon, nikkor, lens, 18-200mm, VR, ED, camera, digital, DSLR

This is not the VR model and does not have AF-S. The new models are around $750-$800. I purchased mine in January 2006 for a little over $400 including shipping. I saw several of these on eBay recently selling for about the same price 2 years later, so they do keep their value. Although I have not taken it into the field much, it is super for tabletop work. I have sold a lot of micro-stock images using this lens.

I also purchased the Nikon 60mm AF micro and I have rarely used it. The 60mm lens costs nearly as much as the 105mm and I see little advantage of owning one other than that of limited space, but that seems highly unlikely. So, the main advantage of the 105mm is that you can distance yourself from the subject.  On the other hand, the working distance is down to 6″ at 1:1. This is a great lens for skittish insects that require a certain amount of distance before they are disturbed.  I am sure that the AF-S motor helps with faster focusing and the VR helps considerably because a micro/macro lens has such a narrow depth of field in close work; however, I always use a tripod when working in the close-up situations. This particular lens is very cost effective over the VR/AF-S model considering it is near half the cost of the new improved model. In addition, auto-focus is rarely used in close-up work as it is somewhat unreliable in the micro/macro arena.

This is a prime lens (not zoom - fized length), so it is tack sharp when focused correctly. It can serve as a portrait lens; on the other hand, it shows each and every pore of a person’s face and that may be undesirable for some that don’t do any post-processing in a photo editor. All in all, you can’t go wrong with this lens. It is definitely one of Nikon’s best. The filter size is 62mm and the lens weighs in at 17.9oz (about 1 3/4 lbs.). I highly recommend this lens as one that you need in your arsenal of glass.

Technorati Tags: nikon, lens, micro, macro, closeup, prime, 2.8, AF, 105mm, review

When I began gearing up for studio type photo work, I knew that I needed lighting. I actually began (like many others, I presume) with inexpensive clamp-on utility light units coupled with daylight corrected fluorescent bulbs (purchased at any large discount mart) on the order of 75-100watts. These were initially used in conjuction with table top shots of still life objects. I also used translucent sheets of plexiglas as a screen to make the light less harsh and more diffused. In addition, I used hardware clamps to hold the sheets upright. The sheets were approximately 1×2′. I also experimented with the diffusers that cover commercial fluorescent fixtures as they are relatively inexpensive. The results were quite good as long as the background could be exposed properly. Sometimes several lights and several sheets of translucent plexiglas had to be employed. Here is an example of an alarm clock shot with this type of lighting:

However, this type of lighting is not very convenient at all. The plexiglas sheets have to be manipulated, the lights have to be clamped to something stable and a fair amount of time is taken to get things right. After putting aside some funds for lighting purchases, I decided to buy two Lowell Ego lights. They are not inexpensive by any means, but their advertisements caught my eye. Since I was still merely taking tabletop shots at the time, these seemed to be the next logical step for me to take. Here is one of the shots taken with the Lowell Ego lights which are daylight corrected fluorescent lights much like the homemade lights that I had previously used:

I wasn’t really disappointed with the Lowell Ego lights (other than the fact that they cost too much for what they were IMHO). Shortly after I began using them, I got a call from a model interested in a photo session where I took the photos and she got several prints as a result of the shoot (TFP: Trade For Prints). I was hoping for an outside session, but since I was going to have to travel a good distance to her location, I decided to take along the only “convenient”, studio lights that I had at the time, the two Lowell Ego units. Fortunately, the people at Lowell put a 1/4-20 screw thread hole at the bottom of each unit. This allows you to attach the light to a tripod. Fortunately, I kept my old, “Junk-Mart” tripods purchased some years back.  Sure enough, as Murphy’s Law states, it was raining when I arrived at her residence. So, not giving up and thinking fast on my feet, I setup the Lowell Ego lights atop the two inexpensive tripods, place the model against an off-white solid colored wall and began shooting. Here is one of the shots that I took:

Some PS post-processing has been applied to the image; however, the specular highlights in Krystal’s eyes and the overall lighting was achieved using the Lowell Ego lights. I shot the image in Nikon RAW and adjusted the white balance when processing the image. Even though the fluorescent lights are daylight corrected, there is still a bit of a bluish-green tint to them. Each Lowell Ego unit contains two 27 watt daylight corrected fluorescent bulbs. This is not a great deal of light. Two of them produce just a little more than 100 watts which is what I was using in one single clamp light.

However, the images worked out well and the model was pleased with the results. You can find Lowell Ego Lights offered here.

Technorati Tags: photo, lighting, tabletop, daylight, corrected, studio, portrait, indoor, lowell ego, lights, tips, techniques, cheap, inexpensive, upgrade, choosing

The Nikon 80-200mm AF f/2.8 Zoom lens is my favorite lens. it was Nikon’s best telephoto lens from 1994-2004. This is not the Vibration Reduction / Silent Wave motor version that costs much more. This lens can be had used and in good condition for about $550-$600. I purchased mine about 2 years ago for nearly $900. The lens is heavy; however, it gets you in close and takes really sharp photos. The lens is great for street photography, portraits as well as some wildlife shots. I have even used it with extesion tubes and it does great as a closeup rig by allowing you to keep your distance from the object you are photographing. So, it will work great, “in the meantime”, until you get that Nikon Micro lens that is made just for closeup work. Overall, this lens delivers great results time after time.

The collar ring on the lens is also handy. When you mount it to a tripod, to move from landscape mode to a vertical format, you simply loosing a thumbscrew and turn the camera and lens 90 degrees.

This one of the most cost-effective Nikon lenses that you can buy today. There are better lenses for more and there are cheaper lenses that are not nearly as sharp. This one falls into that “sweet spot”. You won’t regret having purchased it.

Looking for a great buy in a good piece of glass? Look no further than the Nikon 50mm AF f/1.8 lens. It is great for low light situations, makes tack sharp photos and a used one in good condition can be found for under $100. It is exceptionally light and great for travel. The lens is a prime lens in that it has one focal length. Prime lenses tend to make sharper photos than zoom lenses. So, you legs have to be the “zoom”. On the other hand, when it comes to economy, this is a great lens to have on hand in your growing arsenal of lenses.

Technorati Tags: lens, 50mm, nikon, nikkor, fast. camera, DLSR, glass, economical, equipment, gear