1. Image>Adjustments>Auto Levels
   You could do the levels manually if you want; however, auto seems to work well for this adjustment.
2. Duplicate your layer
3. Image>Adjustments>Equalize
   This adjust the brightest pixels in your image to white. The darkest pixels will go black. After this command is executed, check the histogram. It will appear level almost all the way across
4. Set the equalized layer’s blending mode to Soft Light
   The image should look less harsh and have a better contrast
5. Drop the Soft Light layer’s opacity
   Try dropping it to 30-35%. However, try different opacities to adjust it to what you want in the image.
6. Merge the layers

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Waterfowl Photoshop Brushes 98KB Zip File Download

Jets Photoshop Brushes 68KB Zip File Download

Find these brushes and tons more, plus textures, patterns, and PSD files at BRUSHEEZY.COM

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dead_trees.zip - 336KB Zip File

solo_ballet_dancers.zip - 56KB

asian_dancers.zip - 13KB

The three downloadable zip files contain brush sets that I created. Feel free to download them at will.

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The Time Lapse Feature 

The Nikon Camera Control Pro’s time lapse feature is really nice. You can select the number of exposures for the camera to make as well as the time interval. The settings I chose for the test was 1 minute and 4 exposures. I was not concerned with the setting or the lighting since this was just a down and dirty test, so I set the camera up in the doorway of the dining room and started the series of photos. The first exposure is taken immediately when it is started. I then sat in each of three different chairs. I then went into Photoshop and lasso selected each of “myselves” and deleted the background. I used the first exposure  as the base image. Here is the result:

My brother Tom and my other brother Tom

TIP: Get a USB cable gadget called a USB Repeater Cable. You can get them for around $15. They are 16 feet long and allow you to add your regular USB cable to it. This extends the length a great deal without losing any signal on the bus. I purchased mine from New Egg: COMTOP 16 ft. USB Repeater Cable  NOTE: Regardless of where you purchase your cable, make sure it is USB 2.0 and not the slower USB 1.1

After I purchase an AC power adapter for my D-series Nikon DLSR cameras, I want to setup a time lapse series in the studio on a subject like a seedling coming out of the soil or something along those lines. This software is another tool that will allow a great deal of creative thought for results. Maybe mold growing on some food…a leaf drying up…the sun rising in the morning…

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First Look

My first attempt at using Camera Control Pro was very positive. My initial test was with my Nikon D80. There is a software update patch that will allow Nikon D40s and D80s to work with the software. Your camera must be in PTP mode and not Mass Storage for the software to detect your camera. Once that is done, the software will see the camera and the control window will appear. There are slider bars that allow you to change camera settings. The two “shutter button” controls are AF and Shoot and Shoot (assumes focus has been established previously).  Once the camera shutter releases, the image is transferred to the folder you have already specified on your computer. You can open a preview window and view the image(s) in varous zoom sizes up to full sized. The image files are NOT stored on the SD card in the camera, but only on your computer’s hard drive.  The naming convention can be set in the software.

The images move from the camera to the computer screen in a matter of only a few seconds or less. The software is $69.

I will make another entry once I have tested the software interfacing in the studio.

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Before

After

Here are steps to create the after version shown above:

1. Duplicate the image (optional)

2. Convert image mode to lab color

3. Select the lightness channel

4. Convert image to grayscale mode (discarding the other channels)

5. Convert the image to duotone mode

6. Select the color tone you want (or OK for the default as in this example)

7. Convert image to RGB mode

8. Duplicate the current layer

9. Select that duplicate layer

10. Filter > Blur - Gaussian Blur (20 pixels)

11. Set current layer’s blend mode to multiply

12. Flatten image

13. Duplicate the current layer

14. Select the duplicate layer

15. Set the blend mode to screen

16. Flatten the image

17. Duplicate the current layer

18. Desaturate the duplicate layer

19. Invert the layer

20. Filter > Blur > Gaussian blur (3 pixels)

21. Set the layer’s blend mode to soft light

22. Set the layers opacity to 50%

23. Merge visible layers

24. Dulicate current layer

25. Set the blend mode to screen

26. Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask (Amount 20%, Radious 50 pixels, Threshold 0)

27. Flatten Image

 That is it. As you work through the steps, there will be times in the process where you might not think that your image will end up the way you want it; however, once all of the steps are completed, you will get results similar to the after image shown above.

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